Reasons To Visit Hyder

Yes, this blog is dedicated to educating locals and tourists about northwestern British Columbia. So why am I posting about Alaska?

Because Hyder, the friendliest ghost town in Alaska, is an honourary member of British Columbia's beautiful northwest.

Hyder, and its 100-or-less residents, is the twin "city" of Stewart BC, literally a couple minutes away across the border. The two cities are approximately 2 1/2 hour drive from Terrace, BC, the closest service center.

Tucked away at the head of the Portland Canal, a 70 mile long fjord which acts as a border between mainland British Columbia and Alaska's Misty Fjord National Monument, the two posts were once important shipping and supply ports for the many gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc and tungsten mining booms that came and went from the late 1800s through the 1950s.

Completely isolated from the rest of the state, Hyder is the town Alaska has forgotten about. Dependent almost exclusively on tourism, Hyder is practically Canadian. There is no road or water connection to the rest of the state, although there is a small airport in Stewart. There is one state building, the post office, but the town uses Canadian currency and banks, Canadian customs and law enforcement, and Canadian telephone and utility services. The town, originally known as Portland City, was even renamed after a Canadian mining engineer, Frederick Hyder, in 1914.

While Hyder and Stewart are very remote, they most definitely are worth a visit. Here's the top 5 reasons:

1. Following the Salmon River Road for three miles north of the ghost town of Hyder will lead you to the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site. You will notice it easily because of a) all the cars and RVs in the designated parking area, and b) the stench of dead fish.
Chum and pink salmon struggle to go up and through the shallow waters of the area known as Fish Creek in the Tongass National Forest. The bears, both grizzles and black bears, are well aware of this, and later in the summer often stroll to the area for easy meals. There are so many fish that the bears don't know what to do with them all. Often only take a bite, leave the fish rotting on the side, and grab another. The result is an unmistakable but tolerable stench for humans, and an easy meal for the many species of birds or the occasional wolf.

Despite the proximity to wolves and bears, humans have little to worry about. The Alaskans have built a beautiful boardwalk over the creek so that tourists, many armed with the fanciest of photography and video equipment can get a safe and close up look at the wildlife. It is a pretty rare opportunity to see wild animals this closely.

2. It is not everyday you get to see the 5th largest glacier in North America. Salmon Glacier is one of over 40 glaciers you can see in the Stewart/Hyder area, and though it is a bit of a drive it is easily the most impressive.

How big is it? The glacier begins near sea level and reaches heights of 4300 feet. Looking truly like a river of ice this glacier shows a line of rock debris called a medial moraine running down the middle of the glacier. At various points one can see lateral moraines along the banks of the glacier. The face of the glacier changes always with crevasses being created by the cross movement of the ice flow.

The scenery on the long drive is amazing and even a bit scary. The switchback road can offer a bird's eye view of an amazing canyon. There are also countless unnamed waterfalls to photograph, and a beautiful hillside to explore opposite the Salmon Glacier main viewpoint.

While the Americans like to promote Salmon Glacier as an Alaskan jewel, it is actually back across the border and in British Columbia. You have to go across the border and into Hyder to access the Salmon River road, and then spend over an hour to get to the glacier viewpoints. But it is very much on the Canadian side of the border. There is a marker to let everyone know when you technically have switched countries. There is also a noticeably better-kept road once you cross onto the Canadian side.

3. The third reason to go to Hyder is to get "Hyderized," although it is certainly not for everyone, especially kids. Although kids are welcome to watch at certains times of day.

Being "Hyderized" means to down a shot of "190 proof" pure everclear Hyder moonshine. It is said to the equivalent of drinking 5 beers, but all in one very powerful swig. You're not allowed to smell it first, and if it comes back up as fast as it goes down, you have to buy everyone in the bar a round. Sometimes, the server will take a lighter and ignite whatever spilled.

Even if you don't want to be foolish, checking out the Glacier Inn is actually worth it, and kid friendly usually during the day. Yes, they'll let kids into the bar usually, because, as rustic as it is, the Glacier Inn is a definite tourist stop in Hyder.

It certainly doesn't look like a place you'd want to take kids, let alone go in yourself. But the inside hosts a pleasant surprise.

Although you can go elsewhere to get Hyderized, the Glacier Inn is the legitimate spot. Once you do get hyderized, you can get yourself a t-shirt, a picture with a toad, and the right to write your name, date and message on paper money of your choice and post it on the wall.

The entire bar is lined with money from all over the world. Canadians can once again see $1 and $2 bills. There's lots of American dollars, as well as money from all over the western world. You just might be able to find some money and a message from someone you know, or you can search for the bills from Hollywood heavyweights like Al Pacino, Robin Williams and Hillary Swank.

The actual dollar value of the collection is a source of debate. I've heard everything from $20,000 to $60,000.

The thing I do find a bit funny is Hyder has less than 100 residents, and little to offer, but there are four bars, plus more in Stewart!

Other reasons to visit Hyder, Alaska.

• To say you've been to Alaska
• International Days - July 1st to July 4th
  
• To eat fresh seafood at "The Bus"
• Photograph opportunities, particularly of glaciers, waterfalls and wildlife
• Snowmobiling
• Hiking
• License plate spotting from all over North America and even Europe