Prince Rupert's Cow Bay

One of the oldest areas of Prince Rupert, Cow Bay was originally named Cameron Cove. When the first dairy herd arrived in 1906, no dock had yet been built so the cows had to jump into the water and swam ashore. The locals always dubbed the and where they landed became known as "Cow Bay," even though by 1909 the area became a heavy industrial area known as Vickersville.

Today some industry but no livestock remain nearby, but the city of Prince Rupert has done a tremendous job recreating this waterfront area is a shopping and dining district that is an absolute must see for all tourists.


Just steps away on a weathered boardwalk from the yacht club and cruise ship terminal, an interesting blend of new and distinctive historic buildings are perched near the edge of the sea. The area is now an eclectic blend of gift shops, eateries, marina supplies, native and funky art galleries, scooter rentals, internet cafes, bed and breakfasts, and perhaps most importantly the Visitor Information Center.

Of course, the only constant theme is cows. I kinda doubt there are real cows anywhere near Prince Rupert anymore, but there is no shortage of Cow-decorated items in Cow Bay. Garbage cans. Fire Hydrants. Lamp posts. An old bathtub and an older Volkswagon Beetle both doubling as a flower pots.


And you thought I was kidding.

It is actually quite amazing the wide variety of destinations in Cow Bay given that the physical geography of the area is very tiny. Parking can be a problem on busy days, so you may want to leave your car downtown. It's an enjoyable 5-10 minute walk to the heart of Cowbay, and that way you don't miss anything. You won't need a map or to ask for directions. But if you do, the locals are quite happy to assist.


The undeniable heart of Cow Bay has to be the Cowpuccino's Coffee House. While Tim Hortons is downtown and there is no Starbucks just yet, so this is the trendiest place to get tasty though pricey pastries, fruit and of course coffees. You can't order a "Moocha" at Tim Hortons. Nor can you enjoy the cozy local flavour both indoors or outside on the popular boardwalk patio. I like to look at all the cow-related postcards people sent from literally all around the world, or grabbing the loose box of Trivial Pursuit cards.


If Cowpuccino's isn't the heart of Cow Bay, then Smiles Seafood Cafe most definitely is. Smiles, originally a ice cream shop/hot dog stand/taxi depot, is a Prince Rupert landmark since 1922. Since 1934 it has become probably Prince Rupert's most reknowned restaurant. The fresh halibut and chips are legendary throughout British Columbia.


Other restaurants in Cow Bay include the very cosmopolitan Opa Sushi, located up the steep steps above The Rain Store, which probably does a really good business in Rupert. I don't do Japanese food so I don't know how Opa rates, but it is very popular. There is no way you can miss the striking Cow Bay Cafe building. The very popular Breaker's Pub offers perhaps the best views of the yacht club, but not the best food.


For a very unique accomodation, consider staying at the Eagle Bluff Bed and Breakfast. Originally a cannery house, the owners have done an amazing job restoring the building to provide a cozy nautical theme complete with genuine sounds and smells of the sea. Although personally I most enjoy the toilet bowl flower pot.


The best thing about the Eagle Bluff B&B might be its location about 15 steps from the docks. You can't get any closer for your grizzly bear or whale watching excursion, sea kayaking lesson or harbour/fishing tours.

For those with less money, the Pioneer Hostel Prince Rupert is also located in Cow Bay. They also have done a great job restoring a historic building. They offer free high speed internet and free pickup from the BC Ferry and Via Rail stations. A private room goes for about 40 bucks, while a dorm style room goes for about half that.

Be sure to check out the Sunken Gardens. An entrance is hidden directly behind the hostel, and is one of Rupert's most overlooked tourist stops. As you can see in the following photo, the entrance way looks very univiting...


....but its quite a tranquil spot to escape the t-shirt shopping crowds.


Cow Bay offers no shortage of gift shops, all offering one-of-a-kind pieces that somehow all look the same to me after a while. The Native art is undoubtedly the most popular with tourists, particularly the usually rich cruise ship crowd. They flock to places like The Cow Bay Gift Gallery, Coastal Spirit, Salty Crab Co, Shirts By The Shore and The Blue Heron for art, jewelry, soaps, candles, t-shirts, postcards and good ol' smoked salmon.


Amongst the historical building in downtown Rupert and Cow Bay, the dominating Atlin Terminal building really sticks out as unattractive. But considering its former life (and stench) as the Atlin Fish Plant. It is a huge improvement. What it lacks in flavour on the outside it makes up for on the inside, particularly at the hard ice cream shop. There's a bunch more touristy stores inside, but the terminal's two bookends are definitely worth checking out. On one end is the Icehouse Gallery, a volunteer-run Co-op gallery of northern BC artists. On the other is provincial Visitor Information Center.


While the big rectangular building is comparitively ugly, the waterfront view offered in behind it is a must see. The boardwalk is alive with people watching local fishing trollers or the odd luxury yacht or especially the massive cruise ships. The main cruise ship terminal is a stone's throw away, but Atlin Terminal offers a unique vantage point to witness the turn-on-a-dime arrival of the magnificent ships.


Ah yes! Good ol' Cow Bay. Insert your favorite adjective here. Trendy. Alternative. Eclectic. Fun. All of the above. No trip to Prince Rupert is complete without watching the ships, browsing the shops, tasting the food and buying something cow related that you really don't need. It's udderly amazing!