Nisga'a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park

Anhluut'ukwsim Laxmihl Angwinga'asanskwhl Nisga'a

Traveling some 70 kilometers north of Terrace along the newly christened Highway 113 leads you to a provincial park unlike any other in all of Canada:Nisga'a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park. Where else can you find emerald green waters, serene waterfalls, lush forests, towering snowcapped mountains, a quiet campground an ocean view AND an eerily moonlike landscape 10 kilometers long and 3 kilometers wide?



In the 1700's Canada's last active volcano erupted, killing approximately 2,000 Nisga'a people. Today all that remains is the pocked lava plain that serves as the headstones of these ancestors. This park was created in memory of these people, and in conjunction with the Nisga'a people today. Not only can you experience all that the park has to offer, but you can learn about the nearby native communities of New Aiyansh, Gitwinksihlkw (Canyon City), Lakalzap (Greenville), Kincolith and Nass Camp.

As you leave Terrace you soon realize this will not be a normal trip. The road, poorly maintained until you reach the park itself, is a slow, laborious drive. Though mostly paved, this road is rough, winding and seemingly forever under construction. You have to keep an eye out for wildlife. You are almost guaranteed to see at least one bear en route, without even leaving your car. Deer and eagles are also plentiful.



The views along the highway are mixed. On one hand you have snowcapped mountains and beautiful lakes. On the other you have evidence of clear cut logging and dumpy Rosswood to pass through. There's a few nice houses right on the water, but otherwise its for the transients. Countless rusted out cars line one property. An abandoned bus and tarps form the home of someone. I'm sure Rosswood is a homey little community, but the trip would be some how more pleasant if you could skip by most of it.



It's quite amazing how consistently beautiful everything is once you arrive at the Lava Bed Park's official entrance. Maybe it's because you are glad to have arrived. The entrance sign does not welcome you nearly as much as the adjacent lake-side picnic area. (The likelihood of a bear joining you on your picnic is far less in the park than back in the Rosswood area, but do be aware). The road magically becomes of higher quality (except where a couple of stretches which are still being worked on). The clear cut logging no longer interrupts the beautiful hillsides.



As you drive in you will soon see the plains of lava on each side of the road. The main attraction begins at the emerald green Tseax River. The molten rock ended its original journey at this stage. The lava originally honeycombed, and where it collapsed remains beautiful pools of pristine waters that make parks in the Rocky Mountains jealous.



Crater Creek is next. The first thing you'll notice is that there is no water. The creek was flowing with molten rock. A short trail lets you look at the original path of destruction.

You will soon cross a one lane bridge and see the well marked Vetter Falls pull off. A short trail leads you on a 5 minute walk to one of the prettiest waterfalls you'll ever see. You begin walking through the lava rock but quickly duck into the lush forest. Soon enough you will discover a viewing platform and picnic table right beside the small falls, a babbling brook and surprisingly calm pool of water. The following photo doesn't do it justice. Upon my first visit I instantly and finally comprehended the term serenity.



Instead of continuing further into the park, you can actually turn back 3 kilometers. At this point you will cross another one-lane bridge and you should pull over on the right side immediately. There is the tiniest of signs marking a trail to the much more majestic Beaupre Falls. Another short trail leads you to a viewing platform that is perfect for snapping photos. Usually I like to wander off out of bounds for a more unique viewpoint, but the natural terrain makes that hard to do here. As a result this platform creates the wonderful illusion of peaking through the forest to see the magnificent 33 foot high falls.



Heading back into the park you find the visitor center and campground. The visitor center is interesting in that it is a native longhouse that is traditional in every way except for the attached solar panels. This is where you book your guided tour to the volcano's cone or pay your camping fees. The campground is small and very basic.



Heading out to nearby Gitwinksihlkw you come across an interesting log mould display. A short walk from road leads you to the mould. Many years ago hot lava formed around a fallen tree. The lava cooled around the tree, which either slowly burned or rotted away. As a result you can witness a perfect cylinder in the lava remains. A close inspection shows the imprints of the tree's original bark.



Traveling along to Gitwinksihlkw you can witness a native reserve. There's not much here really, except for a walking suspension bridge which was the only way across the canyon until the vehicle bridge was built in 1995. I understand it is traditional land, but why anyone in this day and age would want to live on the wrong side of the canyon is beyond me. You can actually walk on suspension bridge, but the natives have found the entrepreneurial spirit and now charge $2 for an unguided "tour" across the bridge.



While hardly a city, New Aiyansh is a close as it gets until you return to Terrace. There are some bed and breakfasts here, though I would rather return to the campground. There's a beautiful community hall, some totem poles and a local native art shop.

You can continue on to Greenville for more of the same, but the ocean side drive to Kincolith is particularly beautiful, even if the road itself isn't. Kincolith, or Gingolx, is where the mighty Nass River meets the Pacific Ocean in a coastal inlet. The remoteness of the area provides an environment where wildlife are in their true habitat. Even a short trip allows time to see seals, bald eagles, golden eagles, black bears and various other forms of wildlife.



Also of interest in Kincolith is the Kincolith Christ Church. Originally built in 1900 as an Anglican Church, the building is a large and very striking landmark.